Oasis Overland Adventure - Part 3: Zimbabwe

Our third leg of the Oasis took us across Zimbabwe from Harare to Victoria Falls. Having undertaken a lot of travelling as we drove across Tanzania, Malawi and Mozambique it was an exciting prospect to be based in one country for a while. There was an added sense of excitement for myself and Ben as we were going to be exploring more of the country we'd become so fond of earlier this year. Leaving Harare on the 16th of April we headed east to the familiar city of Mutare, where we stopped briefly for lunch before rolling into the glorious Chimanimani mountain range. As the road weaved upwards in to the dense forest the temperature dropped enough to warrant a fleece and remarks of the similarity to Switzerland or any other alpine destination were floated around the truck. I'm constantly reminding myself that Africa is anything but the dry, flat land I had imagined and Zimbabwe reiterated it to me that afternoon. To the soundtrack of the Spice Girls and midway through a serious truck dance off we arrived in 'Heaven', the appropriately named campsite. Our schedule allowed us one full day in Chimanimani, and whilst the rest of our group donned their walking shoes to explore the renowned Bridal Veil falls Ben and I took ourselves off for an alternative adventure.

Just one of the many stunning views in Chimanimani

Now for anyone who doesn't already know, Ben's maternal Grandfather, David Evans, was a missionary in Zimbabwe (what was then Rhodesia) and it was at the mission station that he met his wife, raised his two children and lived for decades. Ruth, Ben's wonderful Mumma, lived on the mission station, based in a tiny remote village called Rusitu in the Chimanimani mountains for the first 11 years of her life before journeying to England for school. Despite other members of her family returning, Ruth is yet to travel back to this tiny pocket of her past, because of this, and his eagerness to see part of his family history, Ben was keen to venture there. Prior to this decision we had been warned that it is particularly difficult to reach Rusitu due to the roads there being no more than tracks through the wilderness and yet how could we be so close and not go?! The night we arrived in Chimanimani we set about finding a willing driver to take us. The next morning we undertook the 2+ hour journey. On arrival our driver had turned up with his buddy and what can only be described as a battered old car that I was unsure would get us over the bumps, all seemed to be going well as we streamed along the tarmac stretch of the journey, that was until a clunk, bash and the slow stopping of the car. Ben had witnessed something fall off the car, and upon a little inspection it turned out to be none other than the front right break pad. Not ideal...! Now neither of us are mechanics or have the foggiest about fixing cars, but we both could comprehend that a missing break pad probably wasn't the best thing to have happened. After a 45 minute stop the spare break pad was put on and the other side checked, and on we rolled.

Waiting patiently as the brake pad gets reapplied...

Arriving mid morning with no phone signal and no idea where we were going the two drivers patiently drove us from the empty bible school to the heaving church - we presumed correctly that as it was Sunday we would find someone there who would be able to assist us and it wasn't long before we located the groundskeeper of the Bible College (the very one Ben's Grandpa had established 60 years before). He happily took us to the home of Rodney Krastner, the current missionary at the station. We spent a lovely 4 hours in his presence, chatting away about the collage and his involvement in the mission. His house is situated on the same plot of land that Ruth's house was, enabling us to get a real sense of what she experienced when there, including the hoards of fresh, juicy fruit all picking distance from the back door. After a tour of the Bible College we crossed to the other side of the tiny village to explore the mission run hospital where Ben's late Grandma Margaret worked along with his new Grandma Joan. It was a blissful day soaked in family history, my highlight being when Ben spotted his Grandpa's name along the list of founders on a village plaque. To mark the moment we briefly phoned home and Ben was able to speak to his Mum whilst looking down into the Rusitu valley, with Mozambique in the background, the very one she had grown up seeing.

Ben standing next to the plaque remembering his Grandpa

Ben and Rodney at the Bible School mission house

As is the nature of this overland trip, it was a brief stop in Chimanimani before we moved on to Masvingo, the home place of Great Zimbabwe. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe and the home to about 18,000 people it is now just a ruined city. Arriving there mid afternoon we quickly pitched our tents before heading off to explore the ruins. With the aid of a information booklet we negotiated the different crumbling structures still standing amongst the long grass and tried to imagine what life in the 11th century would have been for the residents. Having seen the low lying buildings, as well as poking our noses into the replica traditional houses we made for the hill where more ruins stood proudly on top. Obviously, when travelling with Ben I should have come to expect that when there are two perfectly good paths up the hill we would attempt to make our own and instead of using the purpose built stone steps we would instead scramble up the over grown bushes, negotiate wobbly rocks and creep past baboons the size of an overweight 5 year old. At the top we got treated to more ruins with pokey little alleyways and winding stairways, however the highlight of the ruins is the view that surrounds them. We watched as the sun set on the dry grass plains and imagined that once upon a time the locals of this ancient place would have done the same.

Ben & I on top of the Great Zimbabwe ruins

The main ruin at Great Zimbabwe

Our trip then took us to Antelope Park, Gweru for 4 nights. This place is truly stunning and you can see why many opt for the fancy lodges as a honeymoon destination. Despite being in our tents we had the most wonderful stay as the setting was truly serene. Founded 11 years ago Antelope Park is a non-profit organisation dedicated to the conservation of the African lion. As the park centres its focus on various lion projects we felt compelled to see as many of these majestic creatures for ourselves. Treating ourselves to a little blow out we signed up for a whole host of lion encounters.

One of the gorgeous lion cubs

Playing with the cubs was utterly wonderful!

Our first full day started with a visit to the resident baby lion cubs, who, at a mere four months old, were the teddy bear cubs you imagine. The park is hand raising these three as part of the beginning stage of the release programme. We watched as they played like kittens and we're delighted to witness them playing tug of war with a zebra tail they had been given. Next we were driven over to the lion enclosure - a more zoo like set up that is providing homes for over 69 lions who have been rescued from private collections or bankrupt safari parks. These lions will never be part of the release programme as they have had too much human interaction, but it was still reassuring to know they at least have been saved from what could have been a cruel life in poor captivity. We timed it so we saw three males be fed a hay-bale sized chunk of meat. The extent of their speed and power was demonstrated as they thundered towards the meat, purposefully placed just in front of the fence we were stood behind. Next we took an afternoon off from lions and turned our attention to the four resident elephants. As part of their routine the elephant handlers take them for a number of walks through the bush each day, we were privileged enough to be able to accompany the handlers and enjoyed a blissful hour riding the elephants. My only elephant riding experience prior to this was in Jaipur, India where I was shocked to see the rough treatment of the elephants, especially the confined space they were kept in. To my relief Antelope Park had a much more ethical approach to the training of the elephants, using a similar reward system one would use to train a puppy.

Riding the elephants!

All three of us posing for the photo!

Our second day started early as we were up before sunrise to walk with lions. The two male's we walked with are still considered cubs at 19 months but they are big enough and strong enough to make a zebra kill on a walk the day before (we were delighted for other members of the Oasis group who watched as the cubs stalked, then ran and finally killed the zebra whilst on the morning walk - I would have paid good money to see the group desperately running through the bush, trying to keep up with lions on a kill!). We spent 2 hours walking alongside these magnificent creatures, observing their natural behaviour and seeing how well they respond to their handlers, who they have been raised thinking they are the dominant member of the pride. Our final dose of lion came in our last morning, when Ben, Keianna and I joined two of the parks researchers on a morning drive to observe the lions who are currently in the second phase of the release programme. This man-made pride have been established by the park who placed one male and five females, all who have been through phase 1 (with the lion walks, hand raising and have now reached adulthood). Since then they have had five cubs, born to three of the females, join the pride. It's these cubs, who have had no human interaction, who will be part of phase 3. Our drive was not only hugely informative but we observed a pride acting as 'wild' as possible, including the lionesses descending on the alpha male and fighting over the piece of kill he was hoarding away. Truly amazing and a highlight of our time in Antelope Park.

Ben looking very casual as he walks two 19 month male lions!

One of the lionesses we spotted on the research drive

We then set off for Bulawayo, Zimbabwe's second biggest city. It was a shame not to see more of the place as we stayed in the outskirts of the city, but after a slight change in the itinerary the group had decided to add another day in Victoria Falls instead of paying $100 for yet another safari experience (as you can imagine we were a little overwhelmed with animal experiences by now). Instead we spent the few daylight hours we had in Bulawayo relaxing at the Christian, family run campsite we had checked in to for the night. Some of us braved the freezing temperatures of the pool but most were preoccupied by the Labrador puppy who insisted on using the family tortoise as a play toy. The day finished off celebrating Lindsey's 24th birthday by ordering a silly amount of pizza and fizzy drink which most were still eating for breakfast and lunch the next day!

When you couldn't imagine it would get any better, it did as our last stop in Zimbabwe was to observe the mighty Victoria Falls. As I've previously alluded too due to a change in itinerary we ended up with an extra day in Vic Falls, resulting in 5 nights to really let loose in Zimbabwe's capital of adrenaline sports. Our first full day started with an explore around the small, tour company littered town where we went from door to door on our hunt to get the best deal. Unfortunately, due to it being rainy season at the moment no operators are allowed to run whitewater activities, and despite being desperate to do it again, having got a taste for it in Jinja, Uganda, we had to save whitewater rafting down the mighty Zambezi for another day. Instead we seemed to allow the operators to open our wallet and before I knew it I had signed up for all sorts of high adrenaline activities - well why not..!!

At Victoria Falls

As a matter of priority the group headed to the 'smoke that thunders'. Victoria Falls, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, does anything but disappoint. As soon as you're through the entrance turnstiles beauty gleams at you from every angle. As many footsteps have done before us we walked up to the Livingstone statue and admired the stunning rainbow, a permanent fixture hanging delicately in the spray. Then we walked tentatively down the length of the falls. When I visited the falls in June 2014 the water levels were a little lower and therefore the spray wasn't as intense, instead what we experienced can only be prepared to the middle of a jet car-wash cycle. As we walked along the opposite side of the falls every now and then we caught glimpses of the thrashing water through the thick spray. Sodden through we were all grinning from ear to ear by the time we got down to the far end of the falls and attempted to dry off a little whilst our eyes were gripped to the bridge. 'The bridge' is not only an awesome example of great architecture but also the road that connects the Zimbabwe side of the falls to the Zambian side. It's also where adrenaline junkies get their fix by throwing themselves into the falls as they trust the bungee will fling them back up again. To finish the day we all waddled, feet squelching, to the Lookout Cafe, a beautiful restaurant perched on the edge of the gorge that is just downstream of the falls. Taking in this view we were able to slightly prepare ourselves for what we had signed up for earlier on in the day.

Looking down the falls at the resident rainbow

Next morning came around very quickly and I had a constant battle with the butterflies taking residence in my stomach. Retracing our steps back to the Lookout Cafe, our tour operator had us all kitted out and harnessed up in no time, despite a fair amount of stalling from the nervous ones in the group. Our morning of craziness started with a canopy tour, or for the rest of the world, a series of ziplines through the trees on one side of the gorge. Having ziplined many times before this was a gentle introduction in to the heights and views of the gorge. It was also fairly tame in comparison to what we were about to get ourselves in to. Following the hour or so of the canopy tour we headed up to the top of the gorge for our flying fox. Now imagine a harness being attached to you enabling you to glide along a zipline like superman, well that's a flying fox. Apart from the unnatural need to run off the edge of a gorge to get the best run up, the flying fox was fun and not too heart attack inducing.

At the gorge with the swing ropes in the background

After a rejiggle of the harnesses we were told to walk further up the hill to prepare for the big zipline and gorge swing. Anticipating what was to come a handle of the more nervy / sensible of the group threw down a tequila shot to settle the uncontrollable butterflies - take note, tequila on a empty stomach at 11:30am is not really best practice, but it did the job for the short walk up to the very top! Deciding to go tandem for the zipline as 'the more weight, the further you go', Ben and I (who at the prospect of hurtling down a zipline at 106 km across the 425m wide, 120m high gorge had got pretty nervous by now), however once the initial shock of leaving safe, dry ground  eased we both really enjoyed the ride. We were not only grateful for each other in that moment but for the stunning view, and trust me when you're dangling their for 3 minutes before being hoisted back in you really get to take in the surroundings (that's if you're not Ben and you're complaining that the circulation to your legs are being severed by a too tight harness!!).

Enjoying the zipline together

Next, the dreaded gorge swing. Let me explain, never in my life had I anticipated I would be ready to throw myself off a 70m free fall, 95m long pendulum swing, but as it came as part of a package, and the fact that Ben was doing it, I was not going to back down (nothing like a bit of healthy competition in a relationship). There was absolutely no way I could hurtle myself in to thin air without someone by my side, thankfully here is where Sheila stepped in, weight restrictions stopped us doing it with our respective fearless boyfriends which was probably for the best as neither of them could understand why we had gone as white as a sheet and starting to sweat profusely before the jump. Having psyched ourselves up it was time. We steadily tiptoed towards the edge of the platform and did our very best to hear the safety instruction despite the sound of my beating heart pounding through my skull. A mixture of sheer fear, adrenaline, and 'stuff it' took us over the edge. My silent scream was stuck in my open mouth as we headed, face forwards towards the rocks and waves crashing 120m below us. We were free falling for no more than 4 seconds but it was long enough for me to question when the harness would feel the tension of the multiple ropes attached to us. Our knuckles were white as we gripped on to each other, but as we started to swing Sheila and I were overwhelmed with laughter, relief and pure joy. I remember looking down through the gorge, feeling the cool water beneath us, and sharing a cuddle with Sheila. It was awesome. After a scrabble up the rock to safety we were buzzing but resolved to never do it again. Thank you Sheila for holding my hand as tight as I held yours, we did it(!!!). Ben also went tandem with his truck bromance Michael, who ended up on Ben's lap by the end of the fall. Their photos are just as cool but lack the terrified faces that preceded our jump.

The free fall! I assure you it wasn't long before we were smiling!

Michael & Ben go over the edge...

Ben & Michael as they free fall the 90m

That afternoon to celebrate the groups bravery we boarded our pre-booked sunset cruise along the Zambezi. It was a serene cruise along the banks of Zimbabwe and Zambia and we delighted as we spotted elephant and hippo enjoying the waters as the sun started to cool. I had memories of doing the same journey 2 years prior with my Mumma and just as I remembered it, we watched as the sun just dropped like a stone out the sky. Flashes of pink, red and orange blazed across the sky and it was a perfect beginning to the end, as people's memories started diminishing shortly after - the effects of an open bar mixed with a load of party ready overlanders. Our peaceful cruise along the Zambezi quickly morphed into a floating party. This really set the tone for one of the best nights I've had since we've been on the overland trip. A mix of crazy dancing, endless alcohol and brilliant friendships ended in a night to remember but that most people can't.

Sunset on the Zambezi

Aoife, Ben, Keianna and me all enjoying the boat trip

Waking as early as our dehydrated/hungover heads would allow 9 of us headed out of Zimbabwe for the day and crossed in to Zambia. We bundled into taxis and arrived in Livingstone just before lunchtime. Having battled amongst hoards of locals all queuing for ATMs we finally got our hands on some Zambian Kwacha. A brief stroll led to a wonderful place to refuel and after we had stuffed our guts we ventured in to the Livingstone museum which was informative, bewildering and full of all kind of taxidermy safari animals. Before long it was the time I had been dreading. We had to say goodbye to four of our group who would be leaving the trip and staying on in Zambia. Its never easy to say goodbye to friends but it's even tougher when you've spent 24/7 with them for 50 days straight, especially when one of them is your dance double. Just before we headed back in to Zimbabwe the returning five of us stopped off to watch sunset from the Zambian side of the falls. Still hypnotised from the beauty of the falls we fell in to the trap of wanting to cross the 'danger' bridge to see more. I think I got wetter in those 5 minutes it took to tiptoe across the slippy bridge than I would have if I'd jumped in to a pool. We were again soaked through but the views and experience are totally worth a soggy pair of shorts!!

All of us (bar Michael behind the camera) at the Livingstone museum

Sunset hitting the Zambian side of the falls

Our final day in Victoria Falls was a little more subdued than the previous 4. Sadly this also started with another departure of the group. Mighty Scott from Scotland had to leave the trip early, much to the despair of his fellow beard grower Ben. After a breakfast at our new hang out, the Lookout Cafe, Ben, Michael and Niall went for a bike ride. As they cruised around in the hot midday sun they attempted to ride into a National Park, which before long they were told they weren't allowed to be in. Later that afternoon the group reconvened, with the addition of two new truck members, a German couple called Tim and Marie. We all got spruced up and headed to the prestigious Victoria Falls Hotel where we enjoyed a blissful and mostly civilised afternoon of high tea. (I say mostly civilised as Ben is still working on his table manners!!) High tea turned into a couple of cocktails but as the sun set we peeled ourselves away from the stunning, sophisticated setting of the hotel and trudged back to the campsite. Spirits were lifted as we were introduced to the rest of the 'newbies' and talk of the remainder of the trip started. The next morning the fourth leg of our grand adventure began as we headed out of Zimbabwe and into Botswana, but I'll save that for next time :)

Enjoying high tea

At the Victoria Falls Hotel

Thanks for reading!

Love, Melissa x


Prayer requests:

• That relationships and friendships remain strong for the last leg of our journey.
• That there will be no border issues between here and South Africa.
• We pray for our friends who have left the truck, in particular Ben & Sheila as they continue their journey and for Scott in his interview.
• That the weather continues to be in our favour and that the good health of the group continues.
• We pray for both Ben and myself as we continue to contemplate our futures and the line of work we should pursue.
• We ask God to continue blessing our families and friends at home and keep Rhiannon, Douglas and their unborn baby girl well, and to be with Alastair as his A-Level exams creep up.