Tuesday, 3 November 2015

Howzit vriende!

Obviously we were both extremely excited to be flying to South Africa but if you asked us now whether we would do the 50 minute flight from Vancouver to Seattle for a 3 hour wait before boarding a 14 hour flight to Dubai for an 8 hour wait before boarding a 9 hour flight to Cape Town again we would definitely turn you down! As we are learning, massive slogs are probably worth it, however we were delighted to touch down in SA at 11am on Friday having started our journey on Wednesday morning. Thankfully our rucksacks had also made the mammoth journey and were arguably in a better condition than we were so our prayers had been answered and we had everything we needed to set off on our African Adventure!



Now after more than 36 hours in a confined airplane with no more than 6 hour sleep, it's understandable that when trying, and failing to locate where we needed to be for our Uber ride a small argument arose in Cape Town airport, however after a small wild goose chase around one of the many airport car parks we were our way.

The next 3 weeks would prove to be full of wonderful sights, trips and activities as well as a time for meeting some awesome people and building some great new relationships. There would also be some lows, which as we've come to realise, are to be expected, but overall our time in Cape Town was awesome!

We were staying in  Vredehoek (a suburb at the foot of Table Mountain) in an Air B'n'B which, for any of you who don't know, is basically where people from all over the world hire out spare rooms or their entire house/apartment. In our case we were staying in the spare room of a small apartment with a guy called Nigel. We had chosen to do this as we were keen to stay with someone who had local knowledge of the area and thought that as we were staying for 3 weeks it would be fun to get to know somebody.

We had a really great time at Nigel's and over our time there we shared meals, wine (Melissa did anyway) and conversation with him on a regular basis. He gave us countless tips and offered advice which helped us feel comfortable and at home. It was really rewarding getting to know him - however as he works from home we were probably 'chilling at home' a bit more than he would have liked!

So here is a glimpse of our three weeks in the southern most city in Africa...

'the worst thing about being a tourist is having other tourists recognise you as a tourist' - Russel Baker

Obviously when heavily jet-lagged it's normal to take a couple days just to rest and get over the flight, well I guess we just had ants in our pants as on our first full day we took part in the annual 'Gun Run', Cape Town's half marathon event. Before you go any further thinking 'woah these guys are athletes', stop right there! There is also a 10k and 5k event for the slow and unfit and so we signed up on the day to run the 5k. We saw this as a good way of getting to know our way around the city a little bit & an opportunity to keep up our attempted travelling fitness regime.

With our well deserved medals!
Whilst we were at 'The Gun Run' we found a flyer for 'The Colour Run', happening the next week in the same area, full of endorphin's and dripping with sweat we promptly signed ourselves up. This wasn't so much of a run as a just casual stroll getting covered in paint powder in the midday sun, but it was a good laugh none the less.
Before and after getting covered in powdered paint
A must do when in Cape Town is a visit to Robben Island. We're assuming you all know the significance of this place, being the location of the prison
that housed Nelson Mandela, as well as many other political prisoners, for year after year during apartheid South Africa. The tour includes a fairly rapid ferry ride out to the island followed by a bus ride around the village. The island is home to a variety of wildlife including penguins, tortoise and even a few deer. The finale is a tour of the high security prison which of course takes you past the 7x8ft cell that the late Nelson Mandela endured 18 years of his life imprisoned in.The tours of the prison are given by former political prisoners meaning we heard plenty of stories and facts about 'life on the island'. It was a really worthwhile and humbling visit which reminded us of how blessed we are to live in the safe and equal society we do in the UK. We were also able to reflect upon how much we take for granted the freedom that so many people were, and still are today, prohibited from enjoying.
Mandela's prison cell
We also took a touristy trip to the Cape Town aquarium where we watched penguins being fed and saw sharks and turtles circling the tanks. I also stuck my finger somewhere I shouldn't have in a sea anemone much to the amusement of Melissa but not the staff member manning the 'touch-pool'.

This as close as we ever want to get with a shark!
On our second week we visited the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens which is exactly what it says on the tin. Plants and trees are neither of our top choices for a day out so our visit here didn't last perhaps as long as it should have done. The only reason we stayed past lunch time was because I tried to take us to a place I'd read about only to realise after half an hour of walking that 'Skeleton Gorge' is actually a part of Table Mountain in the higher most reaches of the gardens, and not a small exhibition of animal skeletons that I had hoped for. A slightly grumpy Melissa then had to follow an apologetic me back down into the gardens. Still, we were bored of proteas and other wild and exotic plants that probably should have grabbed more of our attention than they actually did so we headed out in search of food.

Although we had managed to get around via walking or uber'ing' we decided to hire a car for a couple of days to get a little further afield. On one of these days we took a drive down to Cape Point. We set off up to the lighthouse, then along a coastal path to share a kiss at the very end of Africa, or so we thought... It turned out neither of us had done our research properly and so Melissa was fairly disappointed when we discovered that the most southerly tip of Africa is in fact at Cape Agulhas, a fair drive along the coastline. Never the less we made the most of our time at the almost most southerly tip of Africa and particularly enjoyed seeing a family of baboons ravaging a French family's picnic from their car boot!
What we thought was the southern tip of Africa...
In all honesty we had a bit of a fight on arrival to Cape Point mostly because we were both hot and hungry (and Melissa says she's the first to admit she isn't her best when she gets 'hangry'), but also because we hadn't found the Cape Point Ostrich Farm that we had researched in our guidebook for us to have lunch at. I had to work pretty hard to win her round after apparently 'deserting her' (all I did was go to the toilet and then get sidetracked watching two baboons but that story didn't add up with her!) but with persistence, determination and a slice of pizza I did so and we had a lovely time, we eventually found the Ostrich Farm and we thoroughly enjoyed an amazing drive back along the coastline taking in some of the stunning views of the various bays and beaches.

We also used the car to drive over the other side of the mountain to a lovely little place called Simon's Town. It wasn't long before we spotted a fairly large film-shoot in progress. On inquiry we gathered it was a production of something to do with Queen Elizabeth' first visit to Malta and Simon's Town was playing the part of the port of Malta! We had lunch overlooking the filming and then took a boat trip out to Seal Island, a small rocky island about 16km out to sea home to a few thousand sea lions, penguins and a multitude of sea birds. We unfortunately didn't see any whales or sharks on our trip, but the boat ride in the sun was absolutely glorious!

Penguins at Boulders Bay - Simons Town
If anyone has seen photos of the Cape Town coastline you'll understand why we couldn't resist a trip to the beach to have a go at surfing. Muizenburg was the beach of choice with its gentle and regular break perfect for beginners like us. We signed up for a two hour lesson - an hour of instruction and then an hour left to your own devices. Luckily we ended up having a private lesson with a legend called Noble and within the hour he got us both riding the waves feeling like pros! Of course we were far from it, but it gave us the taste for something we'd like to try more on our journey up The Garden Route. It was the perfect time to do it as well as the cool breeze by the sea helped us avoid the near 40 degrees heat of the city that day!

Muizenburg bay
We spent two of our weekends in Stellenbosch which is about 45 minutes drive from Cape Town, and perceived as the capital of the wine areas. Here we stayed with Cristyn's (my sister in law) sister and her husband JP and their two girls Emma(5) and Adele(3). We had a lovely, home-from-home stay with them which included lots of playtime as well as enjoying the stunning scenery of the mountains and many nearby vineyards. It was extremely nice to spend time with family and be shown such a warm welcome. Never underestimate the love and generosity of family far and wide!

Uncle Ben & Adele playing at the wine tasting
Another absolute must when in Cape Town is a trip up Table Mountain. For the most part people take the impressive revolving cable car but Melissa and I were feeling fit and decided to climb it instead. Our apartment was based just at the foot of the mountain and we understood we could walk from here to the route that led to the top. The route, Platteklip gorge, is extremely steep and is more boulder style steps than upwards path. As I understood it the route started from next to the lower cable car station. Whilst this is factually 100% correct, what I hadn't appreciated was that by setting off from our apartment we were actually the right side to join the route further up. When we came to a split in the path, either a left turn or right, Melissa said left however I was extremely confident that right was the way to go. An hour after turning right we came to the realisation that we had walked 3-4 km and a load more incline than was necessary as we eventually looped round to the 'left' path... I was made aware that Melissa had been right and I was wrong, perhaps you'll understand why I wasn't the most popular person on the mountain that morning!

We had set off at about 7:30am to try to avoid the heat as the gorge is totally exposed to the African sun all day. However, by 9am the temperatures were already climbing through the mid twenties and it dawned on us how different this walk was to our experience in the English hills. We eventually got to the top just before 11, almost 3 1/2 hours after setting off (including the time my detour took). Despite dripping in sweat and being desperate for a cold drink the challenging walk revealed utterly incredible views from the top that of course were totally worth it and ridiculously photo-worthy.

Admiring the view on the top of the table
Because we never do things by half we decided the view from Table Mountain, as beautiful as it was, just wasn't enough so set out to climb another mountain on our last night in Cape Town. Lions Head is a much smaller peak which offers stunning views of the city as well as the coastline. We set off early evening to hike up to see the sunset which seemed to be the done thing to do as many locals and tourists joined us for sun down. The climb involved ladders and chains at points but was less tough on the legs and again was completely worth the energy as soon as we witnessed the sun drop into the Atlantic Ocean. The night was brilliant until I rolled my ankle coming down the mountain by torch light. My heart dropped as immediately I experienced instant swelling and we were both aware of a rather worrying cracking noise. From my years playing football this was something I'd done and seen before and was therefore I was fearing the worst. The adrenaline was starting to wear off as I limped down into the car park at the foot of the mountain and it started to silently dawn on both of us what a limiting injury this could be. Unfortunately for Melissa it also meant that on our last night in Cape Town she was left to cook dinner and pack both of our backpacks for our imminent departure the next morning. I'm not sure who was more frustrated that night, me that I had potentially ruined the next few weeks of our trip by injuring myself or Melissa, for the exact same reasons plus the fact she was up late doing all the jobs we should have shared.

The view from Lion's Head of the sun setting over Cape Town
Note here (once the initial shock passed and I silently limped down the mountain we decided to pray for Jesus to heal my ankle. Although I didn't experience an instant zap of healing from heaven, I had a good nights sleep despite my ankle giving me agony and my ankle hasn't swollen up nearly as much as I feared when we saw the initial bruising. In fact as I'm writing I've spent the weekend fairly active with two energetic kids in Stellenbosch which has been a real blessing).

Watching the sun set on our last night in Cape Town
'tourists don't know where they've been, travelers don't know where they are going' - Paul Theroux

Before leaving England we had hoped and prayed that volunteering opportunities with churches or charities would reveal themselves, and that it would become apparent who we could help and where. When in Cape Town we decided that instead of just using our time in the city to be tourists, we should be open to get stuck in wherever we could with whoever needed us. Reflecting on this decision it is clear to us that this is where one of our prayers got answered and that God directed us to this particular opening.

We had wanted to check out Hillsong Cape Town, a church that is also local to us in Tonbridge, and so headed there on our first Sunday. We went to their 6:30pm service in Century City and it happened that on that night Martin Smith (who was lead singer of Delirious for those of you that are into your christian music) was leading a special worship celebration night. It was a fun hangout despite being in the upper reaches of the auditorium where I had to arch my neck to avoid the low overhanging cables and wires. After the service we saw a banner advertising 'Hillsong Africa Foundation' (HAF) and so went over to inquire into what this was. We ended up speaking to the guy who helps run the organisation who informed us it is a charity set up by Hillsong to work in the townships and communities in Africa. For those of you who don't know Cape Town as a city is made up of many areas, some of these will be wealthy places with very expensive homes, at the other end of the wealth spectrum there are also several township communities in which life can be pretty tough.

After a brief email conversation we were invited to volunteer with the team for four days. Unfortunately on the first day I had to go out with the team on my own as Melissa was suddenly very unwell. (Thankfully it turned out to be a 48 hour sickness thing and she has fully recovered now.) I went with a small team from HAF into Gugulethu township where I ended up playing football with roughly 25 young boys for a few hours. Anyone who knows me will know that I was completely in my element despite me not understanding a word of their native Xhosa language (prounced Khosa, but the K is a clicking noise). However, I did have to assure them that just because I was from England and I liked football it didn't mean I knew Wayne Rooney.

Our second day with HAF was spent with a much larger team in another township called Mitchells Plain. Here we got stuck into their 'Light's On programme', an after-school club for about 70+ kids where we played games, delivered a 15 minute lesson and a bible verse. Despite all this being done on a windy dusty playground it was still a great success. Understandably the children have very different upbringings to the life we are used to at home, and in parts it's really tough to know what to do or say when you hear some of their struggles. One instance of this happened at the end of every session when HAF gave every child a peanut butter & jam sandwich and an orange. Some of the most placid, gentle kids during the games suddenly changed once food was bought into the equation, and it enabled us an insight into how challenging life without a steady food source can be on these little ones. Our journey home was delayed somewhat with the 'blessing' of having to change a flat tyre. However I was glad to be of use as I used every bit of knowledge from my tyre changing lesson I received in the UK once from Dave Spring. I wonder whether this impacted my invite back the following week!

On day three we went to Gugulethu again, this time to visit a clinic where adults with disabilities were involved in making bags and other products from recycled t-shirt materials. We also went to the school next door for children with disabilities. In the clinic we delivered a short 'sermon' to the adults and prayed together and in the school we ran the same 'Light's On' programme we had in Mitchells Plain. It was loads of fun and particularly rewarding, especially seeing how happy the kids were when HAF arrived. Many of the children who live at the school were in wheelchairs or extremely handicapped and yet we witnessed them all having such a good time and learning so much about Derek Redmond's story on never giving up.

Since it was our fourth and final day we had arranged to go in the morning as well as afternoon and got involved in preparation for the day. This mostly included us helping to make and pack the 300+ peanut butter and jam sandwiches needed for that day. The afternoon took us back to Mitchells Plain to the same school as before. Again we played games and there was a short lesson, despite the boys giving all kinds of trouble.

In all the above when I say "we did this" or "we went here" what I mean is Melissa and I and the group of volunteers & interns we were with. We are incredibly grateful to the team at HAF for making us feel so welcome. They were all so passionate about our story and really encouraged us to be involved and share in the wonderful work they do. We gained so much from our four days with them and met some awesome people from all over the world including the Philippines, Brazil, Holland, Germany, America, Canada and also many local South Africans. We didn't feel we offered much more than just a spare set of hands but it was a great time and if we are ever back in Cape Town we will be sure to visit again. For any of the HAF team reading this, thank you - you & your work is totally awesome!
(A special mention has to be given to Norbert, you my friend, are so brave, so good at what you do and we are both so thankful for your encouraging words)
Norbert, Ben & Melissa in the Hillsong HAF offices
'the best way to travel abroad is to live with the locals' - Zach Braff

As I mentioned earlier, we were staying with Nigel and it was great getting to know him during our three weeks in Cape Town. On our first night he offered to do a braii (Afrikaans for BBQ) and we immediately felt so welcomed, especially after our mammoth journey. He hosted a dinner party for some of his friends and kindly invited us to join in, so we spent a night eating, drinking and watching rugby with about 10 others getting to know them and sharing our story. On one Friday he had been invited to a hotel new restaurant opening and again invited us to join him. The night entailed free wine tasting (great for Melissa) and a sampling of the new menu. I bravely tried oysters for the first time, however, I'm not sure the waitress was particularly impressed when she overheard me telling Nigel they tasted just like sea-water, but I also wasn't lying when I said they were the best oysters I'd ever had! Melissa is still salivating at the thought of how good the ostrich steak bites were and as we didn't pay a rand for the whole evening we had a brilliant time.

Nigel also offered us countless little nuggets of wisdom including answering our prayer as to how we were going to travel up The Garden Route. Back in the UK we had assumed we might be able to buy ourselves a car when we arrived in South Africa but on further investigation we realised this would likely prove to be a huge headache. After a long, tiring and fruitless evening of researching the best / most affordable way to travel we headed to bed a tad depressed wondering what we were going to do. We prayed God would show up and direct us as to how we would overcome this and we were delighted that the very next morning Nigel said over breakfast "you guys should try the Baz Bus". This not only answered our prayer but gave us an option that we hadn't previously stumbled upon despite thorough research. Perhaps 'Baz Bus' need to improve their advertising but it was 100% what we were after and offered us the freedom to travel, at our own pace from Cape Town, via Durban up to Johannesburg . We'll speak more about the Baz-Bus in our Garden Route blog but it is basically a hop on/hop off bus service designed to give backpackers the flexibility to travel safely from one place to the next.

Honestly, although we can't wait to beach hop for the next 3 weeks, we are gutted to be leaving Nigel and our Cape Town 'home'. Nigel was an awesome host and we will miss his humour and hospitality. We probably won't miss the almost gale force winds coming off the mountain (which Nigel described as 'this is hardly wind at all') but the time we spent will be remembered very fondly indeed. Anyone debating an Air B'n'B holiday - we absolutely loved our experience and you really do get under the skin of a place by living with a local.

As you can tell from the length of this blog post (sorry & thanks for sticking with us!) we packed in so much in during our stay here, but now we feel ready to move on-wards and literally upwards as we travel along The Garden Route to Durban where we will stay with my Aunty & Uncle. We're planning on taking about three weeks to make this trip so watch out for another blog post within the next few weeks. We're not sure what's in store for us but we're pretty confident we're going to enjoy a bit of sun, sea and sand!

Totsiens, lekker dag!

Ben

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Prayer requests:

  • That God has a watchful eye over us as we travel up The Garden Route. That car journeys, transport, backpackers, and hostels are all safe because he is with us. Pray against any delays or harmful situations.
  • May we be kept safe and well when entertaining ourselves, be it in the waves on surf boards, or walking along coastal paths / through unfamiliar areas. Particularly in areas such as Plettenburg Bay and Jeffreys Bay that despite being beautiful, nature has claimed lives so recently.
  • We ask that our three weeks journeying with the BazBus and hostel hopping will be fruitful, especially when conversing with fellow travelers. We pray that we remain open to new and Godly encounters and endevour to plant seeds of faith, be it through conversation or just how we choose to live our lives.
  • Give God thanks for his blessings already, particularly for our time in Cape Town at Nigel's and the days he gave us with Julia, JP and the girls. May they know how much we value their hospitality and generosity. We pray that conversation with Nigel blossom and he is able to fully connect with his Father in Heaven. 
  • May the good work of HAF continue to bless all those they work for. We pray against any harmful situations and particularly ask God to guide all the interns who face tough decisions whether to return home or stay with Hillsong once their year is up. 
  • We pray for all our family at home, as we enter our third month away from home, we especially pray for good conversations and good internet connection in hostels that enable us to tell them we are safe and well. 





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